Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
The effective edge and sidecut radius are things not nearly as important as board width and overall length, a very experienced snowboarder would be picky about those things.IMO, I think Rossi boards last longer than K2. K2s are very fun rides, but might not be a coincidence I have busted every one I have ever owned.The Legion is a nice board too. The build is not much different, but a bit more freestyle oriented (centered for ease of switch riding and quicker turning).
I would say a 155 would be just right for you. The House has a GREAT package deal where you can get a board, boots, and bindings all under $400. I recommend the Rossignol Sultan 155 package with flow bindings (Large) and Sims Rally boots. That is a dream rig-up for an awesome price. Go to The House and click on Board Packages to see the deal.
Hey, sorry but I use the calc and came up with 152 length (25.2 width) — but i am assuming the averages of style=freeride/freestyle and ability=intermediate. Yeh, if your style=freestyle or ability=beginner then it recommends a little shorter like 148 to 150. You could go with anything from 146 to 156 really, but closer to in between would be most accurate. More important than length is width. Dont get a board thats too wide (over 25.5) or narrow (under 24.1) . I have size 9.5 boots and i like a 24.9 width.So most boards of the shorter length (like 148) are actually too narrow for your boot size. For example the rossi Legion 148cm Snowboard is a 24.2 width which is borderline. The 152 is probably right on the money for you at width of 24.5.
Hey Dude,Yeh, that is a small budget, but no fear. The House has a good selection of boards on clearance and some are under $150.Look for the Lamar Jimmy 155cm or 24/7 Wave (or ltd) 152cm. If you can talk the folks up a bit, the rossi boards are killer for the price.
Hey, how was the riding? What angles did you choose?
Yes, the binding algles I suggested are SLIGHTLY ducked, but it is not what I would consider duck. For example +20 and -20 would be closer to duck. having -3 to -5 angle on the back foot actually feels like straight across, especially from the perspective of the instep of the foot.It might work for you, it might not. Most rentals will be something close to that. A lot of rentals (not all) will have a type of binding that can be adjusted on-the-fly, so no need to use any tools or anything.I recommend getting rentals the night prior if possible. That way you can lay out the board on the floor and mock a setup and see how it feels. Looks for things like:- Comfort- Range of motion- Support- Integrity of equipment (everything tight and nothing broken)Doing this seems like a lot, but it will really help you have a better time out on the mountain.
I am an all-mountain rider and I like +20 and -5 for my angles. You might like somethng like that too. Since you are used to renting, I offer you this tip. Every tome before you go to the mountain, put a screwdriver to your bindings and make sure they are all tight. You would be amazed at how often they can come loose from the vibrations on the board.
Wow, Romania, that sounds cool. What is your local mountain? I dont have these boots but am consider getting a pair. Do you like them?
Boa systems rock and so does Northwave. I wish I had those boots. Enjoy!Where did you get them?
Try em on and see which are more comfy 🙂
TY Ben, it's all set up so feel free to recommend it to friends.
Nice pictures. The board looks pretty nice. The bindings appear to be a bit weak, but if you have a really supportive boot you can make up for that. If your boots are floppy, you might have a tough time out there as far as getting enough support down there.The white shaves mean that they ground the base (good) but didnt wax over it (bad). Definately take the board to get hot waxed before using it or else you will get snow sticking to the bottom there.
Sorry allen, had my notification setting disabled on this board — DOH!Welcome to the Frosty Rider forums.I think you got a nice board there. Have you gotten to ride it yet? Can you send a pic of the new setup?
Good questions. Waist packs can be handy for if you have larger items to tote around, but IMO if you can avoid taking any pack at all then that's best. Having a jacket that is waterproof/breathable and has lots of pockets is the most common way to go. As for which pack I recommend, I honestly do not have a personal favorite, but I hear people are happy with dakine, mountain smith.I think the coolest thing you can get is a CamelBak Lumbar Pack. They get rave reviews from owners. I may have to get one of these myself :)As for the goggles, the best tint shade for everyday use is a light brown or rose. These will ensure decent vision in low-light situatioGood questions. Waist packs can be handy for if you have larger items to tote around, but IMO if you can avoid taking any pack at all then that's best. Having a jacket that is waterproof/breathable and has lots of pockets is the most common way to go. As for which pack I recommend, I honestly do not have a personal favorite, but I hear people are happy with dakine, mountain smith.I think the coolest thing you can get is a CamelBak Lumbar Pack. They get rave reviews from owners. I may have to get one of these myself :)As for the goggles, the best tint shade for everyday use is a light brown or rose. These will ensure decent vision in low-light situations while ensuring protection from the elements.I have never seen anything like that. LOL, most of the time i just use a file for sharpenning (sometimes) and a stone for deburring (most of the time). Keeping your steel edges free from burrs is the most important thing IMO.
-
AuthorPosts