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we should have a thread where we just post pics of us and our boards.. so we can show off the reasons we cant hold a job or a realationship haha.. j/k
LOL, yeh, good idea.
I like to keep the tunes fresh so I change often. A lot of times I listen to Smashing Pumpkins, like some of their harder stuff from Gish or Zero albums.
If it comes pre waxed, no. I know burtons come pre waxed.Frosty might be able to corect me though
Some people say always wax, no matter what; but (as Josh correctly stated) my latest Burton board came pre-waxed and it was a really nice wax job. Very impressive! I guess you gotta call em as you see em.
Shoulder width is good. Angles are a personal preference. I ride +25 -10 and that works for me as an expert rider. I would not think any different for different ability levels, mainly just personal preference. I came to those angles by simply standing on my board and simulating motions that I do while snowboarding naturally, like toeside turns, heelside turns, slashes, tucks and grabs.Hope this helps you 🙂
I haven't really found a player that I like yet so I use my HP Ipaq. It has Media Player on it and I listen to different stuff all the time.
AMS Bindings are a decent binding for the money. For $60 or so you can get yourself a binding with nice features like asymmetrical baseplate, tool-less forward lean adjuster, and EVA padding on ankle and toe straps. Most likely a comfortable binding for a casual rider. I have never used Deeluxe boots but I have seen a lot of them on the mountain.
is there a specific reason your back foot is unstrapped? i dont see how this would make it easier, or harder if it was strapped.. keep in mind though i have never done it too.. im just thinking out the concept
Yes, they are right. I know it is a little harder to ride around with the back foot out, but that is the right way to do it. You should “glide” off the ramp and steer out of the way of others exiting behind you. If you run out of steam you can easily skate out of the way. Then skate to a good spot on the trail that you can best strap in your back foot and get going.
It's kinda hard for you since IMO a size 11 boot is right between a wide and regular width board. It is true for a wider board it is harder to carve. A larger foot size helps generate the leverage necessary to put a wider board on edge. Personally I would never want to ride a wide board since my boot size is 9 1/2 US. My friend though, he has a size 13 boot and wide boards are the way to go for him.Here is some help gaging of the board is the proper width (keep in mind that this is snowboarding and the word “proper” really doesn't belong, so let's just say … um… … reasonable).Take your boot strap it in to your binding (if you do not have bindings on the board, that's alright, just place it on the board, right where the boot would be if it were strapped in). Now turn the board so the base is facing you. – If ySo should the screws on both sides be in the same position?
It doesn't matter too much. If you offset it, it can slightly tweak the angle of your highback relative to the binding angle. Some riders like to leave it square on, but some prefer to adjust inwards (more parallel with the board edge) for better range of motion. I think you sacrifice a little support for a little range of motion that way.
And how much toe/heal hang should there be?
Personal preference. I like equal toe/heel hang, preferably 1/2 inch each. That's where the ever-so-important board waist width (as well as overall width) comes into play. With a 9 1/2 boot size and an all-mountain board size of 159, I believe the industry is STILL making most boards too wide. Burton has gotten a lot better. My Custom 158 is a 24.9 waist width.
Not sure about that one — I have always just used a regular camera and been really careful with it.
That adjusts the position of the highback forward or backward. Those with smaller boots may want to move it forward and sasquaches may want to move it back to provide more room. Also, one may want to adjust it slightly for an ideal ratio of toe/heel hang.
[iurl=http://www.frostyrider.com/boards/media/?sa=vua]Post the pic here[/url] and then use the BBCODE it gives you 🙂
The best things to do are to keep the goggles clean, dry, and lenses scratch free. I always store my goggles in a cloth bag or something until ready to wear them. If it is snowing, do not put them up on your head. Also, make sure the vents are open and clear away from your hat or helmet.
