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When I picked my stance for my new boards, I laid the board down on the floor and stood on itcomfortly. I ride slightly bigger than shoulder width, but I put my feed dead center of the bindingholes and checked the stance. If that felt good, I mounted my binding with the sliders left-rightso I could adjust slightly on the mountain. It gives you about a quarter inch in either direction,half inch total of adjustment (atleast on my rides).My all mountain board has an 8mm set-back in the stance, so I ride it a bit on the tail side.My park board has a centered stance (no set back) and I ride it centered.I set my angles by putting my bindings on a piece of wax paper and standing on my boardin my ride stance, then stepped out of the binding gently to leave it in place on the board,and bolted in.I ride +25/-15 all mountain and +15/-15 for park. It took some dialing in, but I think yWhen I picked my stance for my new boards, I laid the board down on the floor and stood on itcomfortly. I ride slightly bigger than shoulder width, but I put my feed dead center of the bindingholes and checked the stance. If that felt good, I mounted my binding with the sliders left-rightso I could adjust slightly on the mountain. It gives you about a quarter inch in either direction,half inch total of adjustment (atleast on my rides).My all mountain board has an 8mm set-back in the stance, so I ride it a bit on the tail side.My park board has a centered stance (no set back) and I ride it centered.I set my angles by putting my bindings on a piece of wax paper and standing on my boardin my ride stance, then stepped out of the binding gently to leave it in place on the board,and bolted in.I ride +25/-15 all mountain and +15/-15 for park. It took some dialing in, but I think you haveto find your own personal sweet spot.Frostys artical on waxing is really good. Kudos!Twsnow does a really really long in depth artical if you need more information athttp://www.transworldsnowboarding.com/snow/howto/article/0,26719,246590,00.htmlBut really thats a full winded version of the post above.I personally like the crayon method as well. I dont think you have to buff as much as you dowith a full on drip method. But! Alot of people recomend that you drip wax atleast oncea season to make sure your board is COMPLETELY covered.Also, i dont know if this actually helps or not, but when i buff it out i try to make it look as ifthere isnt any wax on the board at all. And when you look at your brand new base, and howit looks after a drip wax (before buffing) you'll know what I mean.Frostys artical on waxing is really good. Kudos!Twsnow does a really really long in depth artical if you need more information athttp://www.transworldsnowboarding.com/snow/howto/article/0,26719,246590,00.htmlBut really thats a full winded version of the post above.I personally like the crayon method as well. I dont think you have to buff as much as you dowith a full on drip method. But! Alot of people recomend that you drip wax atleast oncea season to make sure your board is COMPLETELY covered.Also, i dont know if this actually helps or not, but when i buff it out i try to make it look as ifthere isnt any wax on the board at all. And when you look at your brand new base, and howit looks after a drip wax (before buffing) you'll know what I mean. I like my base really really clean.
^- Hilltop hoods! “Full tilt boogie” is my ultimate ride song.I rock some Less than jake as well. I jam a 2nd gen Ipod nano 1g. Big enough to play almost all day.
Best thing I've ever found on the internet Frosty! :mrgreen:I can send pictures if you need to see the setup.
jrv – I dont think flex should be a concern for learning to cruise the mountain. if your goal wasrails or kickers it might be good to think ahead and get a flexable board suited to whatyour aim was. I think sticking in the middle, 4-5-6, would be a great place to start. Mostboards fall into this category anyways, so it makes for easy pickings as well.I know thats kinda vague, but usually the extremes of both sides have specific styles thatgo with them.I noticed the board you picked doesnt tell the flex, but by the descriptions its more thanlikely a midlevel. Arbor has nice boards this season for sure! 🙂
im one of the people that agrees with having a set up dedicated for boxes, rails, etc.i ride the terrain park with a forum manual thats shorter and has more flex than myall mountain board. the flex of the manual is a 3, i can bend it to great degree with myarms. it borders on the “wet noodle” definition of a jiblet. also it has a p-tex base thati can repair on the mountain if i have to. but i also agree that its the riders ability andnot the equipment. a good way to learn rail tricks flat land is on a balance board. a great way to get one of thoseis to either buy a skateboard deck, or hopefully you have one laying around in the garagesomewhere. take the trucks off and place the board on a 2 liter bottle of soda. its bestto take the soda out though and replace it with water, just incase it explodes.standing on the board balanced with tip and tail off the ground dirim one of the people that agrees with having a set up dedicated for boxes, rails, etc.i ride the terrain park with a forum manual thats shorter and has more flex than myall mountain board. the flex of the manual is a 3, i can bend it to great degree with myarms. it borders on the “wet noodle” definition of a jiblet. also it has a p-tex base thati can repair on the mountain if i have to. but i also agree that its the riders ability andnot the equipment. a good way to learn rail tricks flat land is on a balance board. a great way to get one of thoseis to either buy a skateboard deck, or hopefully you have one laying around in the garagesomewhere. take the trucks off and place the board on a 2 liter bottle of soda. its bestto take the soda out though and replace it with water, just incase it explodes.standing on the board balanced with tip and tail off the ground directly in the middle ofthe soda bottle will help you find your balance point for boardslides. heelside carves still are hard for me after 12 years of riding. some things just dont come toyou. i can make easy heelside turns but nothing as far as a hard carve. i just slide. i gotsick of wasting money taking lessons from people and decided to figure out my own wayaround it and worked hard on 180 flat spins. but i have alot of quirks about riding. frontsideairs and spins are really really hard for me…the most i can do frontside is a 3. backsidesare completely natural to me, the season on the east coast started late and im already backto b/s 5's and plan on starting to learn b/s 7's by the end of the season.i guess what im trying to say with that paragraph is, if things refuse to come to you, figure outa way around them. just concentrate on having fun. thats what this sport is all about 🙂are you turning your shoulders or your hips?i find that if i only turn my hips i land 90 all day.if im going to do a 180, or any spin, i first wind up my shoulders as far as i can into my spindirection, then turn my head the same way as i pop. as the motionbecomes more fluid it becomes harder (for me) to 180 than to go 3. also i learned flat instead of putting in an ollie. i wound up and just spun180 riding flat, letting my shoulders wind up for the spin and my hips to execute.
Frosty has a great response! And definatly dont let them push you. They tried that on meand I found I was catching my weight with which ever side of my body became off balance1st. Not a good way to establish direction.Someone told me once that they were asked which foot they would kick a ball with. Thatseems to be a good way to figure things out as well.Of course you might be in the low percent rate that can automatically ride switch.If its really hard to figure out, rent a twin board and just ride both. It'll be set up oneway, but because the board is exactly the same on both sides it wont matter ifyou spin it around. One way should feel wrong, one way should feel right.My natural ride is goofy, but riding that way I find it hard to execture heelside turns well.When I ride regular I can turn very well but when it comes to hitting jumps or taking rails,its a bit awkwardFrosty has a great response! And definatly dont let them push you. They tried that on meand I found I was catching my weight with which ever side of my body became off balance1st. Not a good way to establish direction.Someone told me once that they were asked which foot they would kick a ball with. Thatseems to be a good way to figure things out as well.Of course you might be in the low percent rate that can automatically ride switch.If its really hard to figure out, rent a twin board and just ride both. It'll be set up oneway, but because the board is exactly the same on both sides it wont matter ifyou spin it around. One way should feel wrong, one way should feel right.My natural ride is goofy, but riding that way I find it hard to execture heelside turns well.When I ride regular I can turn very well but when it comes to hitting jumps or taking rails,its a bit awkward and I usually fall. So I switch it up when I get centered, or ride in at an anglethat I need to toe into.ok, lets see1. Rome2. Forum3. Rideive never owned a rome, but ive ridden them often. all my friends have them. minusmy old k2 dart, all ive ever had is forum. i really like the way they respond. and ridejust makes good stuff all around. im still on my original set of bindings from themfrom years ago.
I made my own stomp pad from lexan and grip tape. Used to ride studs, but they had a habit of falling off. I was happy with them, but DEFINATLY follow the package directions on applying them.
a good rule of thumb to follow is go by weight rather than height. also the lengthof the board will affect speed and turning abilities.at 190 5'8″ you can ride boards between 148 and 158.on the 148 side, you'll have much more control over turns andstability, yet speed might become an issue.on the 158 side, you sacrifice turning ability (not leaps and bounds,but you'll definatly reconize a difference), but you'll have more speedand floating ability for powder because of the long surface area.the width should be ok. 11.5 and up and you start talking about wideboards. at an 11 you can probably get away with riding either wideor regular, but if you choose regular stay at the high end of the numbers.there really isnt any magic formula to sizing up a board though. most boardfinders just get you into the ball park. my advice is to ride all the numbersin beta good rule of thumb to follow is go by weight rather than height. also the lengthof the board will affect speed and turning abilities.at 190 5'8″ you can ride boards between 148 and 158.on the 148 side, you'll have much more control over turns andstability, yet speed might become an issue.on the 158 side, you sacrifice turning ability (not leaps and bounds,but you'll definatly reconize a difference), but you'll have more speedand floating ability for powder because of the long surface area.the width should be ok. 11.5 and up and you start talking about wideboards. at an 11 you can probably get away with riding either wideor regular, but if you choose regular stay at the high end of the numbers.there really isnt any magic formula to sizing up a board though. most boardfinders just get you into the ball park. my advice is to ride all the numbersin between hard and see which responds better for you and your ride preference.i ride a forum manual 147 for the park and rails due to its flex and i ride aforum grudge 154 for riding the whole mountain minus the rails.rome makes some killer snowboards too that will probably be in your price range,as well as palmer. i learned to ride on a k2 dart from about 12 years ago hahah.play around with a few boards at your local shop. bend em, feel em, stand on em,have fun. if you find one you really like, you can usually go online and find theyear before models at a pretty big discount, and alot of times the only thing thatchanged is the graphic.hope that helps! -
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