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“AVERAGE ANNUAL SNOWFALL  – 35 inches”LOL, that's funny. But on the flipside, they DO have 100% snowmaking and base elevation of 2,700 ft, so if they make snow in early Dec and have cold winters like the last few, the snow will stick around Mid-December through Early-March for some fun all winter.
Seems like you have a pretty good handle on the sizing ideas now. For example, if you get a Rossignol Sultan Plus Wide Snowboard 155cm that comes in a waist width 25.8 (or the 159cm in a waist width of 26.0) which would be the right for your freestyling orientation.
… I saw you guys talking about the custom boards, how do they feel differently than others?
They are just referring to the Burton Custom. The “Custom” is the name of the model board by Burton. Not actually a custom-made board or anything.
I know this is an older post but I'm just reading it for the first time and have a question– are there specific riding conditions/terrain in which you would want to go with a board with a larger sidecut radius than a smaller one, or is it more personal preference?My board has a SR of around 7.5, is this narrower than average cuz its a girls board?nbsp; (Burton feelgood 152)Â Â
On average, larger sidecut radius is better for big mountain riding and higher speed stuff. Smaller sidecut radius (like yours) is better for smaller mountains and slower speeds. Other than that it is personal preference. For example, some freestylers like being able to make sharper carve turns in the halfpipe (smaller radius) and some like longer turns in the pipe to maintain speed better.
“However I didn't think about the width because I assumed with it being so long, the board had to be for people my height and therefore my size foot.”This is sometimes the case, but not always. It depends on the specific board model. Which board did you get? Yes, the important thing is how wide your board is at the point where your bindings are mounted on it in relation to the length of the sole of your boot. You pretty much want a little bit of overhang — equal on heelside and toe side; but the most common way for guaging is the plain old boot size relative to the board waist width.
I used to live on the east coast. Best seasons anywhere near you are Snowshoe, WV or Wisp, MD but those are over 500 miles from Atlanta. Being down there, first to open are furthest away in Vermont. But then, might as well fly.
I usually go with Smith. I think they are the best for the money and they are easy to find replacement lenses for them. Dragon, Spy and Oakley are really good too. As for lens shade, I prefer light brown for all-around usage. For night riding, nothing beats CLEAR!
It you got the funds, I recommend having a shop do it. Those guys do this stuff every day and it is very technical work. I used to work at a shop moons ago and got really good at it. I must admit that now I suck at doing major repairs (p-tex drip fills and base welds) although I can still do a pretty sweet wax job. I guess it all depends on your experience level and how much time/money you can afford. I took my old Ride Control rock board to the shop back in November cuz it needed some major work done on it and I was really glad to see the guys there did an AWESOME JOB fixing it up. It was about $65. It normally would have been like $40 but it needed a couple base welds. Besides, there is nothing like a fresh STONE GRIND texture finish on a board!
Dakine and Burton make some awesome board bags. If you are just going from the closet at home and into the car to drive to the mountain and want something to store your stuff in, then you don't need too much of a bag. Something with some moderate padding will do (like the DaKine Pipe or Freestyle). If you are taking your board on an airplane, you want something more like the Dakine High Roller or Burton Wheelie.NOTE: Here is a little tid bit for ya. If you are putting your board up on a roof rack (exposed kind not the box carrier kind) you better darn well put a bag over it! (the cheaper ones have less padding and are perfect for tFirst off, you really need to get a feel for softer and heavier snow that spring brings. The technique is similar to riding mid-season powder, but can be more challenging and less forgiving. On the other hand, the higher water content present in spring snow can give a more “surfy” feeling that is unbeatable! The more time you spend on the mountain late in the season, the better you will become.Tips for Snowboarding In Spring Snow
- Keep your momentum going. If you are doing a lot of traversing or slowing and stopping you are going to hate it. Keep the nose of your board pointed down the slope and keep moving at a reasonable pace.
- Do not side-slip unless you are on a really steep run. Even then keep it limited. The further you steer your board across the fall line to finish a turn the harder it will be to initiate the new
Those are good tips. If you go with the airtight container, just make sure there is no moisture in there before sealing it. For softgoods like waterproof/breathable pants and jacket they make special wash to care for that. An example is Nikwax TX Direct.For snowboard, I never do the thick coat of wax deal. I guess if the only place you have to store your ride in like in a garage or something, then yeah, do that for sure. I keep my boards in my house only always. Storing a snowboard inside for the summer ensures that temperature and humidity levels are controlled which helps preserve the base and edges. Simply put the board will last longer and you will spend less in tuning / repair fees.
