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josh do you know how to do a p-tex repair?
small carving, slow leaned in turns from side to side without gashing the mountain.its just something i call it when im inbetween turning and hard carving.have you hit any jumps yet?
i remember that post. and we all had different ways to figure out right off the bat which way you ride without being on the board lol.dont let it get to you if you're “goofy” footed, some people like to pick on people that ride that way,but its all in the name of fun. (im goofy! 😀 )ride however you feel natural and have fun! thats what its all about 🙂
alright frosty im on it. ill do the pics if you guys want to write the article. i do the drip methodif that helps. im waxing wednesday. 🙂
frosty is correct by all information i can find as well. for some reason i was told never to ptex mygrudge because of the sintered base, it has to be ground. i dont know why, but its the info ivestuck to. i dont now if forum bases are made a bit differently, but im afraid to try…so this is where i get confused.i was told never to p-tex my grudge which is sintered.but i can p-tex the crap out of my manual and recon, which arep-tex 4000 bases.this is the info i got from forum, so i dont know what to think. i know p-tex is another manufacturing process of sintered, i knew that before thewikipedia guide, but since sintered is the melting down process of p-tex pellets,and p-tex bases are compressed sheets of p-tex, i dont know what to do about scratchesin either now. :(so seriously now im confused and worried so i need an explanation lol
josh, that reason is exactly why i wax my own board. i have a guy that i trust at my shop, and ill get the 1st tune up of the year done there, but the waxing i do on my own (along with the edging)between the 3 of us, we should write a detailed and photographed how to on waxing, and sticky it for everyone to see. cause some of these shops are real quick to rip you off. (saying 15, and when you pick it up its 45 because they had to “decarbonizationalize” the base..and yes i made that up, but the price does usually change)what do you guys think? my recon is up for a wax, we could make it a great sticky. 😀
if you get into a situation where you dont feel comfortable going straight down like that,theres always the option of doing a “stall” where you go down straight, butthe board is sideways. if you know what i mean.i use this route when i get stuck on a cliff or something and need to go down slowlybecause i dont know whats right under me.from what it sounds, you're picking things up very quickly. how long have you been riding?these are more intermediate questions, so you must have small carving down, right?
yep! 1st time riding and you'll feel like you were hit by a truck…100 times. haha.2nd time wont be AS bad, but you'll still be in pain. about the..5th or so timeyou'll be fine. and its not like that for the 1st ride of every season, the moreyou do it, the more the 1st day wont hurt at all. i had no pains from the 1st daythis year..except my accident haha.and i remember reading somewhere that snowboarding burns like 600 caloriesan hour, so its much much better than the gym. i think i got that fact from livestrong.com.anyone want to double check?
biggest tip i can give you is snowboarding is nothing like skateboarding..well riding :Dso if you forget that it looks like a skateboard, you'll be way ahead. its more like surfingthan any other sport. the tricks however are alot like skateboarding, except rails. railsare reverse…you gain speed on a rail slide in snowboarding, not loose it like skateboarding.
i really wouldnt worry about the glue thing man. keep your hand on the top sheet, and when you feel heat on it, take the iron off. thats the best judge when waxing. your topsheet will bubble before it seperates so dont worry too much about it. waxing your own board is very self rewarding 😀
oh and how they know…. my shop looks it up, and if they cant figure it out, they consider it extruded…so you want to tell him just in case. p-tex will stick to a sintered base long enough to look pretty, but once a radical temperature change..ie snow… hits it, it will pop back off.
from what i learned, sintered can not be added to easily. the guy that works on my board said they'll grind the base down to get gashes out, but if its really bad, they had to add another “sheet” because you cant add spots like you can with p-tex. sintered is harder to put huge gashes in than extruded, but when you put a very very deep one, the board is pretty much considered trash, because it costs too much to grind it that far down and build it back up again. thats why most people (other than pros, their boards are free) resist hitting jibs with a deck with sintered bases.of course this is word of mouth, i take extreme care of my sintered board for this reason alone 😉
the ice was so bad i could see my reflection. both times i went. :Di did manage to find some powder the last time on a run going around the corner.popped up and surprised me, grabbed my board, and tossed me on my face.ahhhh memories ;)hows your season comming along bro?
josh!its pretty simple. the only thing that sucks is, it'll completely wear your arms out.you'll need a cheap iron, or better yet a wax iron, either work. if you use a houseiron, dont use it on your clothes! (i learned that the hard way)if you want real time instructions, shoot me an instant message!you got yahoo or aim or something?we'll tackle this together!oh and worse case is you might heat your board up too hot and melt the bindingagent holding the board together…but that takes ALOT of heat. so dont really worryabout that too much.
Because mountains are never flat, trying to go down a run “flat bottomed” is pretty hard. The more experience you have riding, the easier this is, but for just starting out, what you want to do isbe slightly on one edge and transfer to the other. What I'm talking about isn't so much turning,but just staying enough on your edges to have control.A good way to learn how to make a direct line, is to start out with wider sweeps andwork your way inward.Try using something like…a 10 foot width going down the mountain to start off. go onyour toe side 10 feet in that direction, then on your heelside 10 feet to the other direction.You'll be going pretty straight down the mountain, with just enough turns to make sure youalways have an edge in control.As you get used to this transfer and the speed of going straight down a run, you can startkeeping your boBecause mountains are never flat, trying to go down a run “flat bottomed” is pretty hard. The more experience you have riding, the easier this is, but for just starting out, what you want to do isbe slightly on one edge and transfer to the other. What I'm talking about isn't so much turning,but just staying enough on your edges to have control.A good way to learn how to make a direct line, is to start out with wider sweeps andwork your way inward.Try using something like…a 10 foot width going down the mountain to start off. go onyour toe side 10 feet in that direction, then on your heelside 10 feet to the other direction.You'll be going pretty straight down the mountain, with just enough turns to make sure youalways have an edge in control.As you get used to this transfer and the speed of going straight down a run, you can startkeeping your body straight but letting the board go edge to edge and staying straight.The better you learn these transitions, the more natural it'll feel just riding. You'll startdoing these with the feel of your feet and knees and not think about them so much withyour head and you'll be set.Welcome to the forums by the way. We're all here to help, and hopefully someone elsewill chime in with some more tips for you. This is all I could think of for now. 😀 -
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