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Instead of tissue paper, use an insole that is thicker (takes up more volume) and/or use thicker socks. Those things work REALLY well. (Don't double up socks though, just use thinner or thicker socks to get the best fit in your snowboard boots — that's the key)
Sure man. Also I got a couple extra stickers here so just PM me your address and I can mail you some.
I like the board and bindings for sure. I would go with the DC boots as you will be happier with their reputation for being durable and better performing than the cheapies. Why get a boot then have to upgrade the very next season? My 2cents.
Welcome and thanks for all the details of your situation. It makes answering much easier 🙂Would the wide board be causing me to put too much pressure on my lead foot trying to turn?
I would not be surprised if that was the source of your problem. With a size 10 boot, there is just no real reason to ride a “wide” board. It will just place undue stress on your feet and ankles (which may be contributing to your heel lift) and increase overall fatigue.Plain and simple, get a normal width board. It may be OK to go with a SLIGHTLY wider board due to your higher weight, but not being a tall guy, you really cannot leverage that weight as dynamically, so don't go more than say 25.5cm wide.As for length, not too important unless you are having problems floating in powder. Otherwise, the 159cm length should be fine. 😎 Ride
PAborder, We are always looking for creative and effective ways to promote frostyrider.com. One thing we are doing is, by partnering with the-house.com, offering free stickers and swag for those who order from their online store. Just PM me the order number and total and I can hook you up.Another thing we are doing is offering sponsorships for competitors, mountain employees, and influential people on the mountain. See the link on my signature for the details on that.As for the bindings, I would recommend spending the few extra bucks for the nicer bindings. For a good bargain, consider the Rossignol HC 2Fifty (M/L) for like $75. And for boots, I got K2 Maysis and they RULE! (I am going to do a formal review on them soon)
I think it looks like a good product. Wow, their site has a LOT of pictures. I like the one with the lighting up behind the board — looks like a groovy lamp or fixture.Is it only $12?? That's like hella cheap!
You're very welcome! Salomon = Good choice. Yes, you will need bindings. My favorite bindings are Flow due to ease of use and speed of latching. Otherwise K2, Ride, and Salomon are all winners for bindings (and boards too).Burton makes some really nice bindings too, but they continue their rediculous strides away from industry standard with their retarded 3-hole and EST/ICS (channel) systems. Now Burton DOES offer SOME of their bindings with standard 4-hole compatibility, but if you are mail ordering you might get receive the wrong ones. Personally I don't risk it, just buy a different brand — also it is a mini personal protest! LOL!
For real. There is so much shame in a rental board bindings having zero forward lean! Unfortunately it happens :embarrassed: Here are my recommendations for you…Burton Farm Snowboard 161 (Find it)Completely awesome mid-wide freestyle board (3-hole binding pattern requires burton three-hole or compatible binding)Salomon Pulse Snowboard 160 (Find it)A great quality board for really cheap.
Thanks for the reply PAboarder. Yes, the problem as you outlined is common in guys 6ft and taller. With a longer inseam and higher center of gravity, you guys often find it too difficult to easily stand up from sitting position. Since you are standing up to ride more often from kneeling, toeside riding becomes much more comfortable from the get go (which is opposite for most others).Now, the smaller board may have a little bit to do with your trouble, I wouldnt be quick to place most of the blame on that. It is most likely an issue with the bindings than the board. Let me explain a little bit.If you are turning from toeside to heelside and finding that the board is then “slipping out” from underneath you, then you need to adjust the bindings' “forward lean” adjustment. It is the most important adjustment to be made on snowboard bindingWelcome PAboarder. First of all, sorry to hear about the wrist. I hope is gets all better soon. Are you from PA? What mountain you go to? Also, are you a bigger person? I can offer some pretty extensive advice for you but I just want to learn a bit more about you and your situation first. I bet I (and other members) have something for ya to get to trust your heelside with confidence.
Wow, that's unfortunate about your son's board! When you go to the mountain, it is a bit of an escape. You are there to just have fun, so you really don't think about things such as security so much. I guess thieves know that and try to take advantage of that kind of situation. For that reason, I think it is best to either lock the board, use board/ski check (if available), or what I do is have someone be a lookout guard. If going in the lodge for an extended period of time, I set my board by the window where I am going to be sitting. Most thieves are NOT going to target a board that has eyeballs on it. But if it is not your style to play Homeland Security with your gear, a board lock is a good option.
I went to their website to check it out. That Hero Helmet Camera looks awesome! I didn't know that quality of footage was possible with a helmet cam. Anyone have experience using this or something like it?Merry Christmas !!!
