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Thanks for the question pengee. I have never fancied Switch Bindings. They rank up there with Device Bindings as just being odd to me. My recommendation is to ditch the switch and just go with standard strap bindings. If you want the step-in convenience then go with Flow Bindings. The conveniences of having a standard setup are numerous — compatibility, availability, performance, comfort, and reliability are all increased with standard boots and strap bindings (including Flow which I personally use — see Flow reviews here).
Sure, we can give you suggestions. First things first though. What's your ability, height, weight, boot size, gender?
Welcome Jeremy. Neversummer are nice boards. I have never owned one, but had friends who did and they loved em. I lived in Summit County for a couple years and in Steamboat for 1 year too. (I am in Oregon now) Colorado has some of the best stuff out there for snowboarding. I look forward to hearing what all you have to share with the other members here. Peace.
Some shops sell them. Most are a simple cable lock with combination. Some are built in to your leash. None are exactly the pinnacle of security, but then again most thieves are so out of convenience.http://www.frostyrider.com/shops/frostys_shop.htm?gear=snowboard+lock
This article on “How to turn” might help you.http://www.frostyrider.com/tips/articles/how-to-turn.htm
Also, for heelside turns, make sure your bindings have FORWARD LEAN set right.[iurl=http://www.frostyrider.com/boards/index.php/topic,228.0.html]http://www.frostyrider.com/boards/index.php/topic,228.0.html[/iurl]
position for toeside – pee like a boyposition for heelside – pee like a girl
LOL, that is awesome. Great advise, yeah there is more too it, things like rhythm, timing, and coordination, but basic stances are fundamental. They are the foundation of successful riding and cannot be practiced too much.Weight shifts during transition from heel/toe and toe/heel are subtle but important. For most applications shift weight up and over the front foot slightly, then settle slowly to center. Front toe in, back toe in…Unweight board, twist board slightly.Front heel in… back heel in…Front toe in, back toe in…Unweight board, twist board slightly.Front heel in… back heel in…Like that. You will develop a rhythm to get flow. Once you flow it is all there for you. You are then free to move about the mountain
To do it or not is your choice. There will always be repair costs — either now or later down the trail.THAT will NEED to be fixed there though. It is fixable, but I would not ride it like that if you want the board to last.
Wow, nice first post! WELCOME!Nice deal on that board. Ride boards are nice and durable. I suggest getting a “tune up” from a snowboard shop. They are professionals at waxing and can report any potential problems to you. Waxing your own board is something you can eventually so if you want, but you will have the most fun on a board that is done professionally.As for the new setup, minor dings and scratches are to be expected with normal usage of a snowboard. Most affect performance in no noticeable way. Make sure the edges are intact and that the base material is flush up against the edge. Even with moderate to severe damage, pro shop repair guys can work magic on boards — I have seen some really impressive fix jobs before 🙂
Yeah, pure white bases do not last long. The base is p-tex which is a porous material and it absorbs and holds more than just wax. Stains really easily.
Welcome Alan. DO NOT USE A CLEANER ON THE BASE OF THE BOARD. On the topsheet is OK tho.If you purchased the board at a shop, have them do an “initial tune and edge detune” on the board. That will polish out the scratches and might remove some of the discoloration too.
No biggie. They might have just run a board with a black base over the belt grinder right before yours. Might just be rub-off from that that got cooked in.
Yeah, really hard to tell with the phone camera. If you get just about any digital camera with a flash onto that it will be more distinct.
