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hey frosty, can you just go through the steps and equipment i'll need to hot wax a snowboard thanks.
…Im not frost, and ive never done this, nor do i plan too 🙂 (id just take it to a store)but try this: From and thanks to about.comThere are four things you will absolutely need:  * Wax: be sure to buy ski or snowboard wax that is designed to be applied with a hot iron. There are plenty of choices, but a good all-temperature wax will work well in most snow conditions.  * Scraper: pick this up at your favorite board shop along with the wax. Plastic or metal scrapers are both fine, just avoid really wide scrapers that are sometimes marketed for snowboards – they don't scrape as well as the smaller ones.  * Iron: now might be a good time to invest in an iron designed especially for waxing skis and snowboards. These are smooth on the bottom and therefore apply a nice smooth coat of wax. Or you can go down to your nearest Salvation Army or Goodwill athanks, but other people have told me to rub the wax on first then just quickly hold it to the iron and rub it on then you go over it with the iron
thanks, but other people have told me to rub the wax on first then just quickly hold it to the iron and rub it on then you go over it with the iron
There are two different methods for hot waxing. One is the DRIP method. The other is the crayon method. The crayon method is my favorite, but less common. With Crayoning, you use less wax and don't even need an iron (I use a propane torch and cork instead), but you have to wax more frequently. The Drip method is the most popular and I am doing up an article on it and will post a link to it here soon 🙂
Frostys artical on waxing is really good. Kudos!Twsnow does a really really long in depth artical if you need more information athttp://www.transworldsnowboarding.com/snow/howto/article/0,26719,246590,00.htmlBut really thats a full winded version of the post above.I personally like the crayon method as well. I dont think you have to buff as much as you dowith a full on drip method. But! Alot of people recomend that you drip wax atleast oncea season to make sure your board is COMPLETELY covered.Also, i dont know if this actually helps or not, but when i buff it out i try to make it look as ifthere isnt any wax on the board at all. And when you look at your brand new base, and howit looks after a drip wax (before buffing) you'll know what I mean.Nice link. You are right, a base that is ready to ride is clean from even visible surface wax; and remember do not use anything to clean the base other than a proper “base cleaner”.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RDRoKCAFtX8Â Â .I got some good pointers from this guy here.
Great points in that video! Especially…Deburr first, loosen binding screws, don't let the wax smoke, check the temperature periodically, let wax set a long time before scraping, scrape all wax off the base surface. GREAT STUFF!!!
You should be able to go to any reputable local shop for a wax. I prolly have the wrong attitude but I'm not really interested in learning how to do this stuff myself. I pay $20 for a “quick tune” which includes hot wax and edge maintenance, and 38 for a “full tune” which includes base grind, ptex, edge maint., stone grind and hot wax. Next season I plan on doing a package, 4 quick tunes and 2 full tunes for $120. I'm not sure if this is a good deal or not, but the guys at the shop do an awesome job, so the $$ is definitely worth it to me.Â
It you got the funds, I recommend having a shop do it. Those guys do this stuff every day and it is very technical work. I used to work at a shop moons ago and got really good at it. I must admit that now I suck at doing major repairs (p-tex drip fills and base welds) although I can still do a pretty sweet wax job. I guess it all depends on your experience level and how much time/money you can afford. I took my old Ride Control rock board to the shop back in November cuz it needed some major work done on it and I was really glad to see the guys there did an AWESOME JOB fixing it up. It was about $65. It normally would have been like $40 but it needed a couple base welds. Besides, there is nothing like a fresh STONE GRIND texture finish on a board!
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